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Below is portion of a La Dawri
Coachcraft announcement introducing the new 1D kit for the Conquest, which uses
the Henry J. chassis in lieu of the fabricated tubular chassis of the 1C Kit no
longer available. It is believed that this document was released during late
1958. (This announcement was part of the larger Quest Q.T. factory release
announcement not included below. -- John Edw. Gulow -- 27 August 1981
NEW 1D
KIT: FOR THE CONQUEST BODY. No doubt you will be pleased to learn that we have reduced the price of the
assembled kit unit. This new kit DISCONTINUES AND REPLACES the 1C unit and will
be known as Assembly Kit 1D which includes the 1B body, its included features
mounted on the extremely light and sturdy Henry J. tube type frame which
incorporates independent front suspension. In the case of V-8 motors, the Henry
J. rear-end is replaced with ’49 and later Ford rear-ends, and adapter plates
are supplied to convert the front Henry J. backing plates and brake system to
Ford. - $23.00 extra. The extremely lightweight of the 1D unit gives a
much higher percentage of braking and power to weight ratio. When the motor is
placed rearward in the 1D unit, an increase in torsional rigidity is
accomplished thus giving the 1D unit high torsional rigidity at extremely
lightweight. The stiff spring rate on the front suspension and the low weight
transfer of the semi-elliptic rear results in extremely agile cornering
abilities. The fiberglass body kit 1B, with all its cost free included
features is mounted on the frame utilizing our cantilever method of mounting
thus supplying the floorboards. The 1D kit unit is approximately 935 pounds,
and is priced at $895.00. 100lbs. Lighter and $100.00 cheaper than the former
kit 1C. A good buy for the home enthusiasts. |
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Ford Front Suspension
Parts
From John Gulow:
The Front end change....wow, that was done over 30 years ago now.
The La Dawri Daytona that we bought came on a "Z'd" 1949-54 Ford
chassis,
in fact the car was titled as a 1954 Ford [the donor chassis?]. We
bought a really nice Henry J rolling chassis and did the front
spindle
swap....put the Ford ones on in place of the Henry J ones.
The "trick" with the installation, as I recall, was to invert the
spindles swapping R with L. It was a simple swap installation, no
new
parts were needed...off with the Henry J parts...and on with the
Ford
parts. Thus, the Ford hub, bearings, backing plates and drums were
all
used in the swap. The Ford spindles replace the Henry J's like they
were
made for the use!!
We didn't make it up...it came right from an outline description
done by
La Dawri. I'll take a look thru the records and post something more
about
this.
In
looking over the Henry J and Ford front end parts diagrams, here's what I seem
to recall that we did to our Daytona to install the big Ford front brake
assemblies.
1. We disassembled each spindle assembly from their Henry J A-frames.
2. We drove out the King Pins so each steering knuckle was free.
3. We discarded the Henry J knuckles.
4. We reassembled the spindles...putting the original Right side on the Left
side, but inverting it to effectively lower the front end. We did the same to
the Right side, inverting the original left side spindle. Inverting the
spindles is a "trick" shown in one of the later issues of the La Dawri assembly
manual.
5. We installed the Ford steering knuckles in the Henry J spindles!!! The King
Pin diameter was the same!!!! These fit like they were made for the job....I
don't believe we even needed any more washer shims to keep the spindle from
excess up/down play.
6. The backing plates bolt [as original] to the Ford Knuckles...and all the Ford
brake parts are used. I believe the original length Henry J flex brake lines
also matched up too.
7. I am a little "fuzzy" about the steering drag linkage setup...but I seem to
recall that it all connected to the existing Ford parts as is. I believe there
was enough adjustment in the inkages to accommodate the slightly different
geometry using the existing Henry J steering box, etc.
The rear end we used was a Ford 9 inch from a 66 Mustang auto V-8. We had
planned to use a rebuilt Ford 289 4bbl engine with the Mustang C4 Automatic
[makes for an easy shifter setup]. The car now sits on the Henry J chassis,
unfinished and in storage in northern NJ....a "someday" project.
John Gulow
From Harold Pace:
For vintage racing you will
need some sort of period brakes. The pickiest
groups (HMSA) would prefer drum brakes. The best by far were the
1959-up Buick
drums with Aluminum Alfin drums. They were used on the front of many
Buicks
until they went to discs in the late 1960s. My old Bocar had them
all the way
around. Don't get the 1958 version, as the drums came apart. Or you
can use the
Ford drums with drilled backing plates and good linings (probably OK
if you
don't go too fast...a friend of mine runs Monterey every year in his
Kurtis with
these brakes). If you use discs use Triumph TR-3/4 or Jaguar solid
rotor discs
(both are early discs...the Triumph ones are cheap and you can still
buy new
calipers/rotors for them). The Jag brakes can be found on Mk.10
sedans (the
biggest) or Mk.II sedans. They are basically the same as 6-cyl. XKE
(but the
Mk.10 ones are larger in diameter and cheaper). What will get you
bounced from
most any race group is vented rotors and aftermarket calipers (Brembo,
Wilwood,
etc). You can get drum brake linings replaced with race stuff by
Porterfield (I
think) and others. The first Old Yallers ran Buick drums, then they
switched
to Jag discs up front with Buick drums on the back.
Best wishes,
Harold
From Jon Greuel:
I bought the
set up below because they would be safe and effective without having to
change my stock suspension. I have a Henry J chassis with Ford
uppers, King Pins and Henry J spindles.
1949-53 Ford Front Disc Brake Kit
http://hotrodsusa.com
All you early Ford guys have been waiting for this. We made up a front disc
brake kit using all Wilwood components. Uses 10.75" rotors so 14" rims can be
used with this disc brake kit. High quality Wilwood aluminum hubs with Dynalite
4 piston calipers. Comes complete with bearings, seals, pads, calipers, rotors,
hubs and hardware. Moves the wheel base out 1/2" on each side.
From Dave Perry
Elwin Holmes, who originally built
my Daytona, used the Ford conversion.
He told me he also changed the arms to quicken the
steering. I will get some pictures.
Another choice for pre ' 60 discs is the 59 Healy. VSCCA cutoff
also is Dec 31, 1959. But really guys, drums are ' IN ' for
Vintage...and more than adequate.
From Jon Greuel: The setup I had when my car came to me was not safe
or mechanically sound. The pitman arm was longer than the standard
Henry J to quicken the steering. It caused binding through the suspension
travel. I replaced it with a stock Henry J arm and ended up
with the standard 5 plus turns lock to lock.
From Harold Pace:
The other problem with quickening the steering by extending
the Pitman arm is
that it makes the steering effort much harder. I found this out on my Bocar,
which had a Porsche 356 ZF steering box. No easy answers. Most road racing
specials of the 1950s (Scarab, Old Yaller, Devin SS) used Morris Minor rack and
pinion units (same as MG Midget and Sprite). Depending on whether your car is
front or rear steer, you may need left or right-hand-drive racks (both
available). This could be a good fix if you locate the rack properly and extend
the
rack arms to match your steering arms. Be sure to check your bump steer before
you final mount the rack. If you are driving your car primarily on the track
you don't have to be too concerned about Ackermann effect, but on the street
you do get more tire wear if it is off.
From Daniel Kuck:
I have drum brakes which allow for sharper steering than
discs. I had the sector in the Henry J steering box machined to only
eliminate play. No other mechanical work was done to the steering box.
The times I have entered corners too fast I have experienced over steer.
Scared the hell out of me. My La Dawri Daytona is all Henry J except for
the drums and Ford 9 inch in the back. I don't know what the front drums
are from but they are bigger and thinner than Henry J. |