| Date: Mon, 15 May 2006 13:04:09 EDT
Subject: Re: [ladawri] Vintage Race Car "Builder's Rules"
Hi Jon,
You have a workable situation. I would recommend you build the car
to be eligible for the strictest groups so it can be legal anywhere.
For instance, HSR takes anything on wheels so long as your check
clears the bank. HSMA (Monterey Historics, etc) is very tight, but
has no rule book to help you much. The SCCA Historic GCR rule book
won't help you any except for their roll bar rules, which are
accepted by everybody. SOVREN has good rules, as does CVAR. For most
race clubs you could use any period engine, SBC, early Hemi, Ford
flathead or Y-block, Buick Nailhead, early Cadillac, etc. If you use
a Chevy I would recommend 283 or 327 (required for HSMA). No 350,
etc. If you use an earlier engine than a Chevy you can run in an
earlier run group where your car will be more competitive (1955 and
earlier) in HSMA. This means Buick, Ford flathead, etc. You would
race against Jag XK-series, Kurtis 500-series, early Ferraris and
Allards, etc. With the Chevy you will probably run with Listers and
Devins, a LOT faster group. Check with your local clubs to see what
they allow and how their classes are broken down. You will want a
4-speed T-10 or Super T-10. Some groups can get pissy about a
Richmond, which is silly since they are T-10s also. If in doubt,
grind the Richmond name off the case. You will also need period
intake, like a single or dual 4-bbls on a period (non-Victor Jr)
intake or 3X2s (Edelbrock still makes the best 3X2 intake, the
C357B) fitted with Rochesters (best) or Stombergs. Also, check the
regs since some groups allow electronic ignition (MSD)and some
don't. None will allow crank triggered ignition. Also, you need
period heads, usually #461 or earlier castings. These are readily
available and very good heads. No aluminum or aftermarket iron heads
allowed. You can use an alternator in place of a generator. You will
need period suspension (no Mustang II with most clubs, although
SVRA and HSR will probably not object). Most allow any live axle
(Ford 9" came out about 1958) or Halibrand QC. Brakes will need to
be drums for most clubs although some will probably allow Triumph or
period Jag solid-rotor front discs. You can run the old Halibrand
discs but they don't work well. Best drums are Buick Alfins, used on
the front of many full-size Buicks up into the 1970s. The fake
Buicks with discs inside are not legal and won't cool anyway. Most
clubs require 15" X 6" max rim width period-style wheels (steel,
Dayton wire, Minilite or Halibrand copies). HSMA specs which exact
tire you can use (Dunlops L-series), while others allow other brands
so long as they are at least 60 or 70-series tall. Hoosiers are
cheaper than Dunlop, but some don't last long. Also check on Hoosier
Phoenix and Comanche spec tires (cheaper and harder for longer life
and DOT street-legal). American Racing makes an inexpensive
Halibrand kidney-bean copy mag currently in 6". The 390" (Ford FE)
Daytona was legal with CVAR since we cut off at 1961, HSMA would
maybe not like it or would put it in a newer race group. For safety
you will need roll bar, fire system, current seat belt/harness 5 or
6-pt system and fuel cell. Safety equip is usually cheapest from
drag or road race places like Speedway Motors (my favorite) or check
in Circle Track magazine for ads.
Best wishes,
Harold Pace
Former CVAR rules guy
|
| Hi Jon...I will scan and forward the SCCA rules , there are only 7
pages in 1959 GCR, most of which defines car classes. The SCCA
Vintage rulebook ( March 2005) is about 2" thick and is a reprint
of
the GCR's through 1972, with Appendix for current roll Bar, and
other
CURRENT safety requirement. It may be online, I think I paid 45.00
for my hard copy. SCCA is not currently very active in Vintage
racing..couple of events in the SouthEast and couple in Calif and
that's IT.
Victory Lane Magazine (650) 321-4426 , info@victorylane.com , is
the BEST promoter of Vintage ( pre 60) and Historic ( 1960-1972)
racing interest, and worth subscribing to. These dates are not hard
and fast with every organization, but they are becoming accepted as
defining what is going on Nationally. Because SCCA's emphasis is on
safety, some of the rules, as you noted, take away from the cars
vintage appearance.
Check the West Coast groups for their position on rules...here we
are
most interested in VDCA, SVRA, VSCDA, and the VSCCA, tho' we have an
SCCA Vintage Comp license . For the most part, they are focusing on
REAL period correctness , and ( only )racing at 8/10ths . Some of
the
Historic groups are more aggresssive , more lenient and are racing
at
100 %.
...So....where ever you are, check the group you are expecting the
car to
run in before deciding the course you will take.
The current roll bar specs call for 1 3/4 x 1/8" SEAMLESS tubing
(
DOM)...but 2 1/4 over 2500's. The Kellison road car weighed 2580,
so
be careful in selecting the diameter if you are building a road
car...also check the NHRA specs as well.
You might also get some vintage tips from the kellisoncars.com forum
as vintage racing is a frequent topic amongst several of us.
Dave Perry ...... Old School Restorations of North Alabama
|
|
Hi Jon,
I second Harolds's Speedwaymotors
recommendation. A friend of mine just bought one of their $270 "
Safety Racing-World Class" suits and the quality is excellent. Were
it not for the label, it could pass for a $1200 OMP
Tire
recommendations:
I bought $800 worth of
old/hard/cracked Goodyear Blue Streaks from Carroll Shelby's in
Phoenix back in February. When I called them to ask if I could send
them back for something a little fresher, the answer was NO-- They
do not take any returns on tires.
After this high dollar "burn". I want
to ask if anybody has used "drag" tires for road racing. I know they
have thinner sidewalls, but some of these tires(Hoosier Quick Time)
are DOT approved and listed as "stiff wall" ?. These tires are
priced right and I’m sure they are fresh since they are sold by huge
mass marketers like Summit Racing , etc.
Rory |
